Home > Baltimore Restaurants > Restaurant Review > You're broke. Eat here.

Adjacent to the Hollins Market, Zella's Pizzeria is a bright, clean facade in a neighborhood in dire need of bright, clean facades. Certain advantages accompany Zella's lackluster location, the most trivial being the mere $0.20 it costs to park for an hour, the most significant being Zella's popularity among burgeoning neighborhood associations and local artists.

With inspiring optimism, owner Cem Ari assured us that during Zella's first six months "there's been amazing change." A change he believes promises great things for Sowebo.

Previously known as the Tell-Tale Hearth, a few pieces of the once popular hangout remain. Not as presumptive as some might think, Zella's kept the painting of the raven on the door as well as the slogan reading "Pizza worth raven about." The bar is still here, too, and though the draft list isn't impressive, it's sufficient. Pressed tin adorns the walls and ceilings, while hardwood lines the floor and bay windows.

Along one side of the restaurant is a recently-exposed brick wall displaying art for sale. A savior of sorts, Zella's adopted the SoWeBo Gallery after it was forced to close its doors. Ari says he'll continue the monthly exhibits until SoWeBo Arts finds a new home, and is enthusiastic about maintaining some artistic presence if and when the gallery finally finds a new home.

Dish: The meal began with a couple of Newcastle drafts and an order of Caprese ($6.50). Everything about the app seemed fresh, and its presentation surpassed some of the more established restaurants around Baltimore.

Though our waitress offered high marks for the spinach and artichoke gourmet pizza, we opted for two make-your-own pies instead. The first, a small with Genoa salami, was deemed "a pretty good pie" and eagerly devoured by a single diner, while the second featured feta, spinach and mushrooms. That one, considered "delicious," lasted a bit longer.

The Feast, a sandwich layered with Genoa salami, ham, pepperoni, mozzarella, caramelized onions and topped with lettuce, tomatoes, mayo and mustard, lasted the longest. Half survived until the next day's lunch, and tasted almost as good cold as it did hot. (It would have disappeared in one sitting had the Mediterranean fries—with only a hint of cayenne—not been so distracting.)

Though we didn't try them, the Tallulah's turkey sandwich came highly recommended and the Druidzilla's chicken (with mozz and roasted red peppers) could lure us back for another go-round.

Damage: All sandwiches are $7 and calzones come in just under $10. The make-your-own pie costs $6.50 for a 10-inch ($1.25-$1.75 for toppings) and $10.25 for a 14-inch ($2-$2.75 for toppings), while the gourmet versions are $11 and $16.50. Zella's even offers some baked pasta dishes, with lasagna and ravioli variations ranging from $7.50-$8.50. For us, two beers, one appetizer, two pizzas and a sandwich all came in under $35.

Decision: Though south of most major rehab projects, Zella's adds zest to the southwest in a way that transcends mere gentrification. Having a vested interest in the community encourages Zella's employees and owner to take pride in their locale, though folks from other 'hoods are welcome, too, which makes Zella's exactly what a neighborhood pizza joint should be.

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