You're Broke. Eat Here.

Brush up on your Italian at Il Scalino

By Mike Unger

December 17, 2007

Critic's Rating:
3

You're Broke. Eat Here.
(Credit: Mike Unger)
Photos:
Il Scalino Stay cool Meat man Bread
It's 5 p.m. in Little Italy and darkness has descended. With the temperature below 40 degrees and a stiff breeze whipping the boot-adorned banners on the light posts, a little pick-me-up is in order.

In this neighborhood, that means food. If a homemade meatball stromboli can't lift your spirits, nothing can. The version at Il Scalino, a small sandwich shop and market on High Street, is just what the medico ordered, served steaming hot with savory melted cheese oozing out.

The place does a steady lunch business, but is a bit slower in the evenings. With exotic Italian meats and cheeses as well as a variety of olives, mushrooms, artichokes and other offerings behind a glass display, Il Scalino's relaxing atmosphere is perfect for unwinding and partaking in some gastronomic window shopping.

Shelves with pastas, jams, marmalades and, of course, tomato sauces line the left side of the shop. In the back, a few tables sit surrounded by bottles of wine displayed from floor to ceiling, making the idea of a true European lunch—two hours and at least two glasses of wine—very appealing.

There's even a gift nook that sells Italian football jerseys. Score.

Il Scalino is just what this neighborhood—all neighborhoods, for that matter—needs: a place for folks who don't want to drop $100 on dinner, but hope to grab a sandwich or a slice of pizza, instead.

Dish: Il Scalino's menu balances traditional pizzeria offerings with sandwiches that are a far cry from anything Subway has to offer. Its signature panini, the appropriately named Il Scalino, consists of mortadella, salame, capicolla, prosciuttini, mozzarella and provolone with oil, vinegar and grated cheese. The rich taste of grated cheese and spicy peppers establish the shop's sandwich superiority when stacked against area competitors. Hot paninis, pizza, strombolis and calzones are also available, and you can even wash them down with imported Italian water (really) and assorted juices.

Damage: The Il Scalino is $7.95, while the stromboli costs just $6.95. All the sandwiches, antipasto, salads, strombolis and calzones are less than $10, and even the lasagna checks in at just $9.99.

Decision: Il Scalino strives to differentiate itself from the mediocre pizza and sandwich shops around town by using fresh and unique ingredients. A dollop of green olive spread here, a pinch of basil there—bellissimo!

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