(Credit: Dan Piepenbring)
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1. Every great Indian restaurant must have a lunch buffet that costs dramatically less than its dinners without sacrificing quality.
2. Every great Indian restaurant must be decorated with a delicate Eastern flair that far outclasses, say, your corner Chinese takeout place.
3. A great Indian restaurant should clear your sinuses more effectively than the leading prescription decongestant.
Towson's Café Spice obeys all of these golden rules. What's more, it doesn't incorporate into its title Indian eatery mainstays like "Indian," "Restaurant," "Tandoor," "Palace" or any combination thereof.
Entering the restaurant from the street, one is required to traverse a long, descending hallway that gives the dining room a very private feel. It's also windowless, so on gorgeous summer days you may find yourself yearning to see the sun. Luckily, it was pouring rain when I decided to visit, so the seclusion felt just fine.
Those looking to keep their meals under $10 will have to attend the lunch buffet out of necessity. It runs until 2:30 p.m. on weekdays and 3:30 p.m. on weekends, so even your worst hangover won't be an adequate excuse to miss out. Unlike other all-you-can-eat buffets, Café Spice's vittles didn't look like they'd been sitting under the heat lamps since the Carter administration. The food was kept hot, fresh and abundant. Among the selections were veggie vindaloo, chicken tikka masala and tandoori chicken, in addition to basmati rice and naan.
Café Spice's very kind manager also advised that I try the tomato soup; she was even nice enough to bring a bowl to my table. As you might expect, the soup had a pleasant kick to it and a well-rounded flavor that made it one of the buffet's greatest assets. Not that anything else was bad -- quite the contrary. But this soup was like nectar. Hot, spicy nectar.
I was seated within view of the dauntingly well-stocked bar. On the other side of the dining room was a rustic fountain, complete with that babbling brook sound that either makes you relax or have to pee. In my case, it was the former, but I'm sure Café Spice's gracious staff would be more than happy to accommodate the faint of bladder with seats elsewhere in the restaurant.
Dish: The lunchtime buffet includes an ever-shifting variety of Indian favorites, appealing to vegetarians and carnivores alike. Even people who don't like spicy foods can probably find something appropriate. Honestly, though, pop a heartburn pill and go all out. Feel the burn. You'll be glad you did.
Damage: If lunch is any indication, Spice's dinners are delicious, but they'll set you back at least $11. The buffet, however, is a mere $8 -- tack on tax and tip and you'll still be under $10.
Decision: If you're really looking to pinch pennies, you'll probably have to dine elsewhere. But if you want Indian food and you're anywhere near Towson at lunchtime, by all means, spice up your life.
