Most of us, thankfully, are much too young to recall the department-store lunch counters popular circa 1956 -- the focus of so much controversy during the Civil Rights Movement. The owners of David's Restaurant & Deli in Hampden seem to remember these grilled cheese palaces fondly and have mimicked the décor impeccably -- sans racial tension. To describe the ambiance of David's as "no-frills" would be the understatement of the century. If there is anything on the walls that surround the wooden tabletops, it's not memorable. Although, David's does have its perks.
Unfortunately, until recently, top-notch service wasn't one of them. There's usually one server per 10 tables -- friendly, but largely MIA. Doing what, I wonder? Given the uber-casual fare, he probably doubles as the short-order cook. The sign in the window is a desperate plea: "EXPERIENCED [underlined twice] help wanted." No joke.
The first time I ate here I slapped my credit card down on the table, the guy grimaced and said, "Credit card, I hate credit cards." Somehow, he managed. It took some doing, though, considering he disappeared for more than 10 minutes. After the meal, he chased me to the curb to ensure that I had indeed left the merchant copy, and he seemed relieved that I was so savvy about the whole process. Where else can you leave feeling like a Mensa member for performing such mundane tasks?
David's desperate pleas must have been answered, as the service has much improved since then. Even David himself ventured over to pat me on the back. Besides being able to walk away feeling like a genius or a prominent patron, David's gives you the rarefied experience of indulging in truly delicious comfort food without emptying your wallet to achieve the much coveted Buddha profile.
Dish: Typical diner fare at low-diner prices -- the difference being that this place is actually clean. While the idea of open-faced sandwiches smothered in brown sauce may not appeal to some, those who've noticed how pretentious Hampden's getting can appreciate the importance of a quality pile of greasy fries covered in gravy. Plus, my good-food-ometer is merely a not-so-subtle measure of how sick I feel afterward. If I wolf it down and think I might vomit, it's good.
If you're out for a buzz, consider pre-gaming or getting sloshed after 'cause there's no champagne in the sex room ... um, I mean there's no booze at David's (and, just to be clear, there's no sex, either). However, David's is open 24 hours Thursdays through Saturdays, so you can always cure your drunken munchies craving here.
Damage: My mouthwatering Rachel (for the sandwich-impaired, that's the tastier gender alternative to the Reuben) was rife with thinly sliced corned beef and freshly made coleslaw and ran me a mere $7.25. My boyfriend had one of their sumptuous burgers, and you can't beat the price at $4.95. French fries come regular or curly (both rock!) for $1.75. We split curly fries. The Cokes, which we each had, are bottomless for around a buck. The total check for two of us was $20.07.
David's also features platters from $7.95, and toothache-inspiring desserts (peach melba, apple pie and chocolate cake) for $2.50. On no-dough and a grumbling stomach, you can't go wrong here.
Decision: Unless your aim is to underwhelm, I wouldn't recommend David's as a first date. Plus, if the date's a flop, there's no brew to drown your disappointment. But for a laid-back, hometown meal at ridiculously reasonable price, it's a must grub.
You're broke. Eat here.
Indulge the diner things in life at David's Restaurant
By Molly O'Donnell
Special to MetromixAugust 24, 2007


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