You're broke. Eat here.

Dogwood Deli puts its roots down in Hampden

By Molly V. Strzelecki

Special to Metromix
August 24, 2007

 

You're broke. Eat here.
(Credit: Molly V. Strzelecki)
If you didn't know it was there, chances are you'd walk right on by the Dogwood Deli, located among Hampden's funky shops, and even funkier people. With only the tiniest of signs fluttering high above the door, the outside of the building is rather nondescript. But once you walk inside, you're enveloped by fresh aromas, your mouth waters and, for all you really care, you could be on Venus.

There are two parts to Dogwood Deli, divided simply into the upstairs and the downstairs. Upstairs is the actual deli where you feel like you're in the kitchen of someone who's generously preparing you a plate of food. You're more likely to take that plate of food to go rather than hunker down and shoot the breeze with an old friend, because the deli is a small area with only a few stools that overlook 36th Street. A couple of plants and some assorted knickknacks dot the shelves, and a chalkboard lists menu options, with choices of sandwiches, salads, smoothies and sides. Dogwood partners with local farmers and artisan producers, and you can definitely taste the quality in each sandwich.

The downstairs area boasts a casual elegance with a simple cream and black theme -- black chairs and cream-colored tablecloths speckle the room. The only natural light filters in from the front and back doors, and the low lighting adds a coziness to the comfort food you're about to eat. The same menu is available downstairs, with the added bonuses of a place to sit, a waiter or waitress to deliver your food and owner-encouraged BYOW (bring your own wine). On Sundays, Dogwood serves a brunch menu that rotates in a few items you won't typically get at the deli.

Dish: We each decided to snag a sandwich from the long list of options, and I'll be honest when I say it wasn't an easy choice. Everything looked good and far surpassed standard deli-counter options. I went with the rosemary-peppered roast beef and blue ($8.10), delish thin-sliced beef on ciabatta. The apricot-horseradish chutney and blue cheese that topped it gave the sandwich a surprising sweet and salty twist.

My friend got the grilled fresh turkey Rachel ($7.25), which was stacked with Thanksgiving-worthy turkey and served with a cranberry mustard on marble rye. The coleslaw topping, she said, added pizzazz. Each sandwich was served with homemade chips that were salty and crispy -- everything a girl could want in a chip. As an afterthought, my friend grabbed a slice of blueberry bread ($1.50), which was ... different, with an unexpected cornmeal texture.

Damage: The total bill slid in just under the $10-per-person limit, at $19.74. Not a bad deal, considering all it included. Had we sat downstairs, we still could have dined on the cheap, though we most likely would have topped out the limit, adding in tip for the server.

Decision: Dogwood Deli is a double threat -- scrumptious gourmet sandwiches, salads and smoothies at a price that can't be beat. Upstairs will save you a few pennies, but you can't go wrong on either floor.

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