You must be logged in to access this page
Bertha's
Slippery when wet: Assorted steamed mussels at Bertha's
Ingredients: Bertha's steamed white water mussels from New England are smaller than some of the other Mobtown mussels I tried (which tend to be P.E.I.--a.k.a. Canadian imports!). Andy Norris, Bertha's owner, informed me that in early June (when I visited) the mussels had just spawned (I know, I can't picture it either), but he's certain that throughout the summer they will become more plump. What sets Bertha's mussels apart from other Baltimore bivalves is the wide variety of sauces that accompany them.
Damage: $10.60
Decision: Variety, they say, is the spice of life, but at Bertha's it's the condiment of life. An order of Bertha's Assorted Mussels is served with eight different sauces (mostly butter, butter and more butter), so despite their relatively small size, they remain big on personal selection. Here's the run down on some of the sauces: The anchovy, tomato and garlic butter, the house favorite, is expectantly salty. Good, though not my fav. The Spanish sauce, a combination of tomato sauce, peppers and onions is something between cocktail sauce and salsa. I didn't give this one a lot of love. The regular butter and garlic butter sauces come in a diverse array (served with capers, basil or spinach and tarragon), and they go well not only with the mussels but also with the hefty loaf of Italian bread served on the side. And though the sour cream and scallions is a bright and refreshing contrast to the buttery others, my favorite is the Lancaster creamy mustard sauce. It's smooth and a little spicy. When at Bertha's, be sure to practice safe dining. Use a condiment.--Mark Gross
