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Crab and corn flautas at Loco Hombre
Ingredients: The crab meat is sauteed and mixed with whole corn kernels and poblano, which gets all rolled up in a crunchy tortilla shell and served on a creamy yellow corn sauce with black beans and sweet pepper slaw. The corn sauce caused a moment's hesitation, as it is slightly reminiscent of one of my fiercest arch nemeses, creamed corn.
Damage: $9
Skinny: I humored myself on the way to Loco Hombre, repeating one of my favorite non sequiturs from The Simpsons. I said, "I want a taquito," out loud probably a dozen-and-a-half times. (What can I say? Simple minds. Simple pleasures.) Anyway, how disappointing to discover Loco Hombre doesn't actually serve crab taquitos. They serve crab flautas, gosh darn it. Upon delivery, I was pleasantly surprised to see the three rolls on my plate were comparable in size and shape to, you guessed it, taquitos! I couldn't help but smile to myself, and even more so because each is a different color. "I want a red taquito. And a yellow one. And a green one." Each roll was filled with tasty sauteed crab meat, which was flavorful, but not spicy. The crunchy tortilla shell is complemented by the sweet, soft texture of the pepper slaw. And the corn sauce, though initially inciting fear, was nothing to be afraid of. Its smooth texture softened the crunchy shells and the black beans piled on top added the perfect Tex-Mex flavor.—Mark Gross
