The first thing you notice at Northeast Market is how small it is compared to Lexington Market. The second thing you notice—and you notice this almost immediately—is that, while the market may be small, the sense of community here is not. There are no frills or gimmicks here: Northeast Market is neither a tourist attraction nor a museum piece; it doesn't serve beer, and there are no belly dancers in sight; yet it remians an integral part of the surrounding East Baltimore community. Northeast is the unsung hero of Baltimore markets—it isn't flashy or exciting, but it's affable and dependable.

Because Northeast serves the surrounding community in a functional way, it offers an eclectic variety of goods for shoppers. Need a wig? No problem. How about a cell phone? Got you covered. A "Scarface" T-shirt? What size? We know you've been looking for a new water-bong, but do you prefer glass or metal? Yes, shoppers, this funky little market has a bit of everything. It may not have the depth that some of the bigger markets have, but it has odd little places you won't find elsewhere. Come along, traveler, and join us on our journey to the East.

Eats: When it comes to grub, this market is pure East Baltimore. This means lots of barbecue, fried chicken, fried fish, gizzards, greens, mac-n-cheese, mash potatoes and gravy. If the smell of fried lake trout makes you salivate, head over to Ronnie's  or Bair Brother's Chicken. Brunner's Lunch has served quality meals since 1925 and offers a good soup and salad take-away. We can heartily recommend Michael's Pizza and Subs, as we were forced (oh the tribulations of the struggling journalist) to try a hot slice of pepperoni pizza.

Johnny's Deli, Mike's Deli and Rex's Deli all serve an assortment of sandwiches and subs as well as classic deli fare like potato salad, cole slaw, macaroni salad and various cheeses. Northeast is now starting to show more of a Latin influence, and a couple of stands offer tacos and burritos. If you're hankering for something from south of the border, the first place you want to go is Margarita's.

Meats: Think you can find cheek meats, pig's feet/ears/tails, oxtails, neck bones, aitch bones or fat back at Safeway? Not a chance. Well, Fellner's Meats has provided Baltimore with those cuts for decades. If you're looking for something a little less down-home, like maybe ground beef or sirloin, Fellner's has you covered there, too. If it's an animal with wings you want, have a gander at Bair Brother's Chicken or Richardson Farms. Richardson Farms raises some 10,000 chickens on its own farms in Baltimore County.

According to Green Beret and Vietnam veteran Sergeant James M. McClain, Shore's Seafood serves the best raw oysters in our fair city. We wouldn't argue with him—but then we tend not to quarrel with men who were tunnel rats in Vietnam. The oysters on the half-shell did look fresh and tasty. The Sergeant Major made short work of them and did so with considerable aplomb. Shore's Seafood also provides a plethora of fresh fish, crabs, shrimp and various bivalve mollusks.

Treats: Northeast doesn't offer the variety of sweets and treats that you'll find at Lexington and Cross Street markets, but there are a couple places where you can find candy and cakes. Dawn's Sticky Bun Bakery offers birthday cakes and ice cream. Pak's Greenery has, along with flowers, balloons and gifts, a nice little candy counter with goodies like Hershey's Kisses, Now & Laters and hard candy.

Fruits and veggies: Richardson Farms has been operating since 1930 and is truly an institution. Its legacy can be seen in its customer's faces; the people browsing the kale, cabbage, mangoes and pears are obviously regulars—you can tell by the way they stand and chat with Richardson's employees after they finish purchasing their collard greens. This place is absolutely the last word when it comes to fresh fruit and vegetables at Northeast Market.

Best deal: Finding a best deal at any of the city's markets is a tough call, because it depends on what you're looking for. We're going to say it's a toss-up between the big fat Virginia ham sandwich with chips and a 20-oz. drink ($4.95) at Johnny's Deli and the Ronnie's Fried Chicken special of six shrimp, three lake trout and western fries for $7.90.