Hollins Market

A touch of 'Avalon' in Sowebo

By Robert Jacobs

Special to Metromix
January 2, 2008

Hollins Market
Hollins Market (Credit: Robert Jacobs)
Photos:
Hollins Market Market shoppers Chuckie's Hi, guys!
Hollins Market is a small but charming market right in the heart of Sowebo. Named after the Hollins family (who once owned large amounts of land in Southwest Baltimore), this is the oldest existing building in Baltimore's public market system. The original two-story structure was built in 1839 and was expanded in 1864. The original market spilled out into the surrounding streets and included several blocks of street vendors. This was the case until the 1950s, when Hollins was the last of the municipal markets to shut down outdoor street stalls. If you want to have a good look at what that old market was really like, rent Barry Levinson's "Avalon." The market is a central character in the film and, indeed, in the life of Barry Levinson.

While today's market is only a glimmer of what it used to be, it's still a cool place to visit and a good place to buy fresh groceries and great fried chicken. Nearby attractions include the H.L. Mencken House, B&O Railroad Museum, Babe Ruth House, Edgar Allan Poe House and Union Square Park, all of which are within walking distance. Once you've grabbed some of that famous fried chicken, head out and explore the area. Hollins Market is also ground zero for the annual Sowebo Arts Festival.

Eats: Hollins Market doesn't have a huge amount of take-away food stalls like some of Baltimore's other markets, but it does have a few places to grab good grub. First on our list has to be Chuckie's Chicken, if only for its perpetually long line. If it's been a while since you've had a juicy breast or succulent thigh between your lips, head over to Chuckie's while it's hot. Two other notable stalls are Honey's, which offers a combination of soul and Chinese food, and Eddie's Lunch, which offers standard fare like burgers, subs, BLTs and fried fish. Despite the name, Eddie's also has breakfast. If you're looking for something lighter and healthier, try Custom Salads.

Meats: Bernie's Meats and Deli and Lauman's Meats both offer high quality beef and pork cuts. They have everything from ground chuck to pigs' tails to baby beef liver and fatback. If you're looking for feathers, head directly to Jack's Poultry, run by the same family that owns Chuckie's Chicken. They've provided fresh poultry to Baltimore for some 50 years. For something with gills or a shell, try either Johnnie's Seafood or Hollin's Seafood. Both have a plethora of fish—rockfish, catfish, white perch, lake trout, hard head, red snapper—and it all looks fresh.

Treats: There's really only one place to get sweets and treats here, and that's at Sophia's Bakery. Sophia's has been the market's bakery since the '60s and is owned and run by Michael Tsamouras. Sophia is his wife. When we asked Tsamouras if the market had changed much in four decades, he said, "Oh it's changed a whole lot. Before, there was no air conditioning, no heat and the restrooms were outside." But some things haven't changed, namely the care and attention that goes into Tsamouras's baking. A quick list of Sophia's cakes and pies includes carrot, German, coconut and chocolate. We also saw some pretty sweet looking slices of cheesecake.

Fruits and veggies: L & R produce is the sole produce stall in Hollins Market, but fortunately there's a wide variety and everything on display looked fresh and well manicured.

Best deal: This one's a no-brainer—head straight to Chuckie's Chicken and grab yourself a box of thighs...or breasts...or hearts, livers, gizzards—whatever turns you on. The stall also sells batter for those of you who would rather supply your own chicken.

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