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It's not an easy time to open a restaurant, and Federal Hill isn't an easy place to do it. The Hill, however, is off to a strong start. Named after the historic hill that gave the neighborhood its name, The Hill resides in a beautifully updated spot once home to the much less pretty Banjara.
Chef Antoine Petteway, who once ran the kitchen at the nearby Metropolitan, is a neighborhood favorite, and a strong staff culled from the bars and restaurants around Federal Hill is already operating smoothly. Actually, when we were there, the staff size was enormous, though this will surely be reduced eventually. Most restaurants open with kinks still to be worked out. The Hill had no noticeable gaffs, except for a couple gaps in menu item availability.
Crowd: Considering that The Hill's opening took place during the traditionally slow Memorial Day Weekend, the new restaurant was surprisingly busy. Anyone who has spent a decent amount of time in Federal Hill would have recognized most of the clientele, as almost all were neighborhood regulars. Like Metropolitan, Regi's and a few other spots, The Hill seems aimed at slightly older locals, rather than the weekend influx of 20-something drunks.
Food: With chef Petteway at the helm, the quality of the food wasn't in question. The menu covers a broad range of steaks, chicken and seafood, with entrees in the reasonable $17 to $22 range. Starters run from $9 to $12, as do sandwiches. The fryer wasn't up and running on our visit. The question now is whether the market can handle two restaurants with similar menu concepts in close proximity? Metropolitan, across the street, hosts the same broad contemporary American food concept (its menu was, after all, designed by Petteway). Hopefully there will be business enough to keep both afloat.
Drinks: The wine list looks respectable, with a wide range of varietals and regions represented. Bottles cost between $26 and $42. The bar's martinis are excellent, though the martini list is skewed toward those who like sweeter drinks. Beer drinkers will be disappointed. The bottle list is fine, but on draft were just five Clipper City beers and, because the beer is served in glasses smaller than a pint, $5 is too steep.
Digs: The once unimpressive, almost dingy Banjara has been transformed into a stylish dining room and bar. A horseshoe-shaped bar centers the room, while tables circle it. Fogged glass, dark wood, exposed brick and a pressed tin ceiling all create wonderful atmosphere. The lighting, though bright, seemed about right for the upbeat vibe of The Hill. Classic jazz played over the speakers. The large TVs showing sports didn't quite match the rest of the vibe, but at least the sound wasn't on.
Bottom line: If any new restaurant can make it in restaurant-saturated Federal Hill in the midst of this brutal economy, The Hill is that restaurant.
