First look: Taverna Corvino

Meatballs are a hefty accompaniment to other small plates. (Credit: Lindsay Smith)

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Now occupying the space that once was Juniors (and Vespa before that), the newly unveiled Taverna Corvino is the buzzing new secret of an already vibrant dining scene in Federal Hill.

The name means tavern of the raven, but there is little tavern-like about it. Having eschewed bistro wall art for a black chalkboard surface with elegant script and designs, Taverna Corvino brings class back to the space adjacent to Mother's and across from Mad River. A superb menu of daring small plates by executive chef Chris Paternotte (formerly of Vin and Kali's Court/Mezze) is presented with finesse alongside a decent wine list, discerning imported beers and a full bar.

Crowd: Despite being another sibling in the Ryleigh's Oyster family, it seems Taverna Corvino is courting the more sophisticated diner among the Jager bomb pack of Federal Hill. Competing with fine dining heavy hitters such as Corks, Metropolitan and Matsuri, it attracts a crowd of older foodies with adventurous palates and a willingness to spend $50 on a respectable meal.

Food: Although the menu is still referred to as a "test kitchen" (as in "developing new kinds of food"), it's comprised entirely of small plates ranging from refreshing salads to hearty pastas, most within a $6 to $9 range. With two plates per person serving as a decent meal, it's strongly advised you visit with a group to get a good sampling of the fare. Combining surprising ingredients and utilizing small-plate standbys (such as calamari and meatballs) in refreshing and unexpected ways, this is definitely a menu to tour.

Digs: With only the slightest of changes, Taverna Corvino transformed Juniors from fine dining to nearly upscale. Black linen napkins and soft candlelight are nothing new, but the previously overbearing presence of flat screen TVs are muted by ambient jazz and minimalist décor. Though some familiar faces remain, even the staff seems to have spruced up a bit.

Bottom line: For foodies around Baltimore, Federal Hill is quickly gaining culinary weight. Taverna Corvino is another welcome addition to an area previously known only for drink specials and bar food. Hopefully Taverna Corvino sticks with this solid menu and concept to entice a regular following. Even before the official opening (scheduled for the week of March 24), we're hooked and highly recommend that you get in there before everyone in Baltimore discovers this new treasure.