First look: Sushi Hana

Japanese cuisine rolls into Mount Washington

By Mark Gross

Special to Metromix
February 12, 2008

First look: Sushi Hana
Knives are sharpened and at the ready at Sushi Hana. (Credit: Amanda Krotki)
Photos:
Sushi Hana Action figure party Dining room Gild the kitty
We've often taken advantage of Whole Foods' quick, reliable sushi lunch. After all, a mouthful of wasabi doesn't wreak nearly as much havoc on a person's stomach as an extra value meal. Regardless, Whole Foods lacks a certain appeal no high-end, organic grocer can muster. Chiyo Sushi, then, used to be Mount Washington's only other sushi option, but now locals have somewhere else to turn with the arrival of Sushi Hana at Lake Falls Village.

Food: Sushi Hana specializes in sushi, of course. A carousel of familiar faces rotate in and out of the Mount Washington location from Sushi Hana in Towson, perhaps operating under the assumption that fresh faces make fresh sushi.

During lunch, the competent chefs churned out rolls in mere minutes. We had barely delved into a crisp sesame seaweed salad ($5.50) and miso soup ($1.95), before our first roll arrived. The salmon bonfire roll came topped with fiery orange salmon and a spicy dollop of green wasabi cream. Don't be fooled by the name, though, this roll isn't all that hot. The salmon wasn't served in the sort of robust, healthy chunk we'd imagined. Rather, it was pureed, which really wasn't all that hot either, if you know what we mean.

Featuring a fanciful plastic bonsai centerpiece, the Bruce roll's combination of shrimp tempura, jumbo lump crab meat and avocado started out strong, though the slightly slimy avocado diminished its chance at being as impressive as the plate's lavish decoration. Fortunately, the crunchy tuna roll appeared to wash away the lingering flavor of mediocrity. Its spicy black pepper tuna, tempura flakes, avocado and tobiko (flying fish roe) opened up the nasal passages and provided a reason to consider a return visit to Sushi Hana.

Another sleeper on Sushi Hana's menu is the easily overlooked Hana salad ($4.50). Its combination of imitation crab stick, cucumbers, apples and vinegar dressing is a surprisingly sweet concoction that would be a refreshing summer app.

Booze: Stop for a bottle of wine on the way to Lake Falls, because Sushi Hana is BYOB. For now.

Digs: Beyond the small dining room, a tiny sushi bar has stools for approximately 10 people. Along the corridor to the restroom a couple of booths feature sliding doors, which can be closed for added intimacy. Despite its close quarters, the whole space feels open, as lots of light shines through large windows up front and accents the bright, clean decor.

Vibe: So, maybe lunch shouldn't be your first inclination when thinking of Sushi Hana. One salad, one soup and three specialty rolls shared between two people swelled beyond the $50 mark. The retirees and stay-at-home moms who crowded the dining room one weekday afternoon probably didn't mind as much as we did, though, but that's not to say we won't be back.

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