(Credit: Mark Gross)
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Cinghiale (ching-GYAH-lay) means wild boar, but the feel is far less rustic than that furious pig might imply. Based on Northern Italian tastes—indulging the lifestyle as much as the flavors—Cinghiale encourages a slow, subtle descent into the dining experience, much the way one might find himself slipping into a pleasant daytime reverie.
During a lunchtime visit, a few local business types hurried in and out, and though they probably enjoyed the food, they may have missed out on Cinghiale's single greatest charm: Its leisurely, indulgent pace.
Food: No, Cinghiale isn't another tapas restaurant, but the small plates selection provides an alternative to a full-blown meal. The roasted eggplant ($4) remains firm, cool and slightly sweet. Of the house–made meats, we sampled la porchella ($9), which is suckling pig, and though the pistachio in the thinly-sliced pork slivers influence texture more than flavor, the peppercorns certainly make themselves known. The crumbly cheese bra duro ($5) is big on salt, but the house-made Concord jelly tempers the flavor well.
Though our meal consisted of a few small plates, we're already hooked. We're eyeing the grilled big eye tuna ($29) and the pan–roasted duck ($31) for next time, but like many diners, we're easing into the concept. Concerns about the overwhelming menu and lax pacing dissipated, though, as an enthusiastic and knowledgeable server held our hand through this first look.
Booze: That same enthusiastic and knowledgeable server suggests everyone start a meal at Cinghiale with—what else?—the traditional cinghiale. A blend of Aperol (an orange and rhubarb-flavored aperitif), orange juice and soda water, the restaurant's attractive house cocktail starts tart, but gives way to friendlier fruit flavors.
Don't overlook the extensive wine list, though. Short of flying to Italy six times a year (as Foreman did), one of Cinghiale's wine flights introduces guests to Foreman's favorite regions without the hassle of airport security.
Digs: At Cinghiale, exotic details don't compromise local charm. Carver Center art instructor Joseph Cypressi sculpted the lunging boars above the bar, and local artist Carl Neilson sketched the many large, framed charcoals that adorn the dining rooms.
Vibe: Cinghiale is about luxury and leisure. A good or even great meal can be had dining in the casual enoteca, which is the area surrounding the bar. And the same is true for folks grabbing a "quick" three–course prix fixe lunch in the osteria, the full dining room. But the most valuable Cinghiale experience will include a long afternoon or a leisurely evening, through which diners discover an invigorating experience that refreshes the palate as much as it does the body.
