Cross Street Market

Historic market offers a glimpse of the past

By Robert Jacobs

November 20, 2007

Cross Street Market
(Credit: Robert Jacobs)
Photos:
Bar Girls' night out Shoppers Stop to shop for flowers
Scientists argue that, theoretically, time travel does not violate the laws of physics, and is, therefore, possible. But who has time for theoretically? Theoretically, you could use your dishwasher to harvest oysters, but what good would it do you?

In the interest of workable solutions, Metromix is happy to announce that we've actually located an honest-to-goodness way-back machine. This particular time machine is located in the heart of Federal Hill and is colloquially known as Cross Street Market.

Originally developed in 1845 as an open air market, Cross Street survived several incarnations. In 1864, Baltimore architect Frank Davis replaced the open air market with a large wooden building. Davis' building lasted until 1951, when a 12-alarm fire destroyed it, as well as a significant portion of Cross Street.

Built in 1952, the current 30,000-square-foot market was originally supposed to have a parking garage on top of it. Sadly, the garage never materialized.

Several of the current market stalls have long and varied histories dating back 100 years. The owner of Fenwick Choice Meats, Henry Reisinger, has worked in the market for 37 years and says it's all about people: "Personal service is still big. My customers expect to see my face here in the morning."

Eats: Whether you're looking for fried gizzards, sushi, raw oysters, Western fries, kielbasa, pretzels or an overstuffed Reuben sandwich, Cross Street has you covered. Head to Mondawmin Chicken (awesome gizzards and livers) or The Chicken Box for anything fried. Nick's Oyster Bar is a wonderland of oysters (Louisiana, Chincoteague, Chesapeake) and other seafood delicacies. Besides, sitting on a stool drinking good beer and watching Lisa Purisima shuck oysters is hypnotic. Steve's Lunch and Big Jim's Deli are Federal Hill institutions; $5.25 will get you the massive and somewhat intimidating Big Jim's Reuben (corned beef, sauerkraut, melted Swiss and Russian dressing on toasted rye).

Meats: Looking at the cuts of steak behind the glass of Fenwick's Choice Meats brings out the carnivore in the most committed vegan. Nunnally Bros. Choice Meats (since 1875) is another Cross Street landmark that has provided generations of Baltimoreans with first class meats. If you're looking for something saltier, head to the other end of the market, where Cross Street Seafood and Nick's Seafood offer fresh catches of the day.

Treats: Take your sweet tooth to The Sweete Shoppe, where she can peruse row after row of fine chocolates, candies and ice cream. Or stop at Piedigrotta Italian Bakery where the cannoli would make Tony Soprano swoon.

Fruits and veggies: Bongiovani & Son is a name to be trusted. It's provided Baltimore with fresh fruit and veggies for eons. Kwon's Fresh Produce is second only to Bongiovani for crispy apples and juicy oranges. If you want the benefits of fresh produce, but can't be bothered to peel or chew, stop by Juice Me Up for a liquid dose of Vitamin C.

Flowers: If you're looking to win that certain someone's heart or brighten up your digs, Cross Street Market is a mecca of beautiful flowers. Our two favorite florists are My Flower Box and The Flower Shop.

Best deal: This is a tough call, but we're going to go with Big Jim's Deli. In this case, "deli" is short for delicious.

What other people are saying...

Jess the Mess from Federal Hill - April 06, 2009 at 3:39 PM

When I was at Taverna Corvino this weekend, I met Big Jim herself, or rather the owner of Big Jim’s in Cross Street Market. My fiancé introduced as...

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Fort from Fed Hill - November 17, 2008 at 12:55 PM

Everytime I come into Cross Street Market and try to get Sushi for lunch at Nick's the Girl working there tells me it's going to be at least 45 min...

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