Andersonville on the march!

Latest round of openings redefines the ever-expanding neighborhood

By Emily Hiser Lobdell

June 6, 2008

 
Andersonville on the march!

Gourmet coffee. Mexican food. An Italian deli. This isn’t your Scandinavian grandmother’s Andersonville. While the Swedish influence carries on, this North Side neighborhood continues to stretch its cultural boundaries with diverse new restaurants, bars and shops.


NEW EATS

La Cocina de Frida
This 32-seat restaurant inspired by artist Frida Kahlo has been open since Jan. 15, but things didn’t really start to heat up until the recent opening of a 100-seat back patio. Many of the traditional Mexican recipes here come directly from Kahlo’s books (she was an avid cook), but the signature dish, the Bomba Frida ($12), is the restaurant’s own creation: a volcano-shaped combination of pork, ham, chorizo, green and yellow peppers, melted cheese and pineapple. La Cocina de Frida recently launched weekend brunch (8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday) too. For $15, get all-you-can-eat fresh fruit, chilaquiles, huevos rancheros, Mexican potatoes and more.

Piatto Pronto
This full-service deli opened just more than a month ago with a lineup of meats and cheeses sold by the pound and a list of 36 sandwiches available to-go. Owner Mike Itta recommends the Dolce di Parma sandwich: proscuitto di Parma, tomato, basil, fresh mozzarella, olive oil and tapenade on a fresh baguette ($7.99). Homemade Italian gelato and cookies round out the selections.

Big Jones
Chef-owner Paul Fehribach calls the seafood-focused cuisine at this spot, opened April 9 in the former Augie’s space, "coastal Southern"—i.e., it spans the U.S. coastline from Maryland to Florida and includes Cajun and Creole influences from New Orleans. Fehribach also uses lots of locally produced, organic ingredients in his food—with the growing season in full swing, the relish tray of pickled vegetables ($9) is a great way to showcase summer’s best. Big Jones also serves afternoon tea complete with decadent red velvet cake ($7).

Great Lake
Owner Nick Lessins says his three-month-old shop isn’t really a restaurant, but if there’s room at the eight-seat communal table, feel free to pull up a chair. Great Lake offers five 14-inch pizzas ($16-$20) made mostly with locally produced ingredients—don’t miss the smoked bacon, creme fraiche, onion and sage version. While you’re waiting for your pie, peruse the shop’s retail section, which is filled with handpicked items, including flatware, teas, preserves, peanut butter, sea salt, handmade candy and locally made greeting cards.

NEW DRINKS


In Fine Spirits
In early April, Shane Kissack and his wife Jill expanded their 3-and-a-half-year-old wine and spirits shop to open this lounge of the same name right next door. The couple partnered with Paul Hasenwinkel and Johnnie Grozenski of neighboring Continuum Studio spa to open the two-story spot, which sports an outdoor patio. In addition to 60 wines, In Fine Spirits offer 20 craft brews and 20 classic cocktails highlighting artisan spirits. Shane Kissack recommends The Attention ($12), a blend of Broker’s gin and Creme de Violette liqueur, which casts a dreamy violet hue with flowery tones to match.

The Coffee Studio
Foodies Miguel and Lee Corrina Cano opened this sleek coffee spot in December with the goal of serving super-high quality coffee in Andersonville. The Canos work with Intelligentsia to obtain coffee beans within a week or two of roasting, they use organic milks, and all sauces and syrups are made in house. A rotating selection of artwork rotates cover the walls, and a menu of small plates and sidewalk seating are in the works.


[ Emily Hiser Lobdell is a Metromix special contributor. ] metromix@tribune.com

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