Inside: V-NO

If you think wine and chocolate pair well, why not try chocolate port? (Credit: Molly V. Strzelecki)

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When V-NO opened in September of 2008, it didn't open as one of those typical stuffy, pretentious or intimidating wine bars. It opened with the intent of simply bringing tasty wines to the people of Baltimore, and getting people excited about wine. And, whenever possible, making those wines earth-friendly, as well.

About 35 percent of the wines at V-NO are either sustainable, organic or biodynamic, says Mark Bachman, who owns the wine bar with his wife Kristina. When choosing wines, he notes, "The first thing we value is taste," but when choosing between two wines that taste equally good, they "always give a nod to the green-grown vineyard."

So far, that approach seems to be working quite well for the new kid on the Fells Point block.

Vibe: Mellow, upbeat music plays in the background, and art DVDs play on the TV (except during Chick Flick Sundays, when the bar features chick flicks and wine specials for those seeking refuge from Sunday sports). All of that is just an easy undercurrent to the laid-back atmosphere of V-NO. As Bachman noted, "It's wine. It's fun. There's no need to get uptight about it." The sleek, contemporary interior is simple without being cold, and while the staff is inviting, they're not in-your-face. Everyone's just happy to see you and happy to help you find a glass of wine you'll enjoy.

In warmer months, V-NO's outdoor seating fills up quickly. Regardless of weather, though, the wine bar is busiest on Friday and Saturday nights (natch), with good retail traffic on weekend days.

Crowd: Obviously, there's always some tourist traffic wandering Fells, but more often you'll find locals at V-NO sharing a bottle simply because it struck them as a good idea. (Is it ever not?)

Libations: Well, there's wine, and then there's...wine. And a few select, upscale beers, as well. But why would you go to a wine bar to drink beer? You can answer that question yourself, but for those who like a taste of the grape, the variety available at V-NO is simply terrific. Almost all wines are in the $30 and less range. (Except in the "cellar" area, which is where fancy-pants wines and champagnes are located.) Also, those signs above the wine shelves—like "round" or "juicy" or "lush"—aren't a comment on your drinking habits. V-NO just categorizes wines by taste rather than region. Genius!

Insider tips: Three things. One: Save room for dessert wines. When V-NO characterizes the Desiree Port as "chocolate wine," that's exactly what it is. No lie. This wine tastes like chocolate. Repeat: Wine that tastes like chocolate. Two: V-No loves a good wine tasting, and hosts them regularly. Some are free, and some carry a nominal charge, but all are bound to be tremendously tasty. And three: Unlike other establishments in Baltimore City, V-NO has a liquor license that allows it to sell bottles of wine and beer for carryout on Sundays. Now you're covered for those impromptu dinner parties. Oh, and if you buy a bottle to drink at the bar, V-No only charges a $7 corkage fee, which is about as low as you'll find in Baltimore. OK, so make that four things.

Bottom line: Wine is terrific. Wine is even better when there are tons of delicious choices and you can drink them in a laid-back atmosphere on the water.

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