Inside: Metropolitan Coffeehouse + Wine Bar

Split personalities have never been so appealing

By Lisa Wiseman

Special to Metromix
January 23, 2009

 
Critic's Rating:
4

Inside: Metropolitan Coffeehouse + Wine Bar
(Credit: Lisa Wiseman)
Photos:
Metropolitan Coffeehouse + Wine Bar Crowd Vibe The view

After an electrical fire shuttered its doors in 2008, we were happy to hear that Metropolitan Coffeehouse + Wine Bar reopened later that year. Whenever we went, we fantasized about living in Federal Hill so we could visit on a regular basis. We imagined strolling there in the morning for a cup of fresh-brewed coffee and a bagel or leaving our downtown office mid-day and walking over to meet a friend for lunch. Yes, in our fantasies, we’re always walking. Even in our imaginations, there's no way we’re giving up our parking space in Federal Hill.

Vibe: Coffeehouses and wine bars are usually separate entities. Metropolitan merges the elements well. The space is informal and comfortable, yet chic enough to manage dishes such as pan-seared scallops or fresh mahi mahi.

As for décor, we think there might be some mandate that Federal Hill establishments have local art hanging on exposed brick walls, wood flooring, a view of the main floor from the second and track lighting. Thankfully, Metropolitan is in full compliance with these unwritten architectural ordinances. However, the place is far from ordinary.

We like the "L"-shaped bar in the main room and the tables that look out onto Charles Street. There’s even a little lounging spot with a white leather couch on the second level. The night we visited, we were treated to an interesting—but not distracting—mix of music, ranging from Pink Floyd to Arcade Fire.

Crowd: Metropolitan is a neighborhood place, but that doesn’t mean it’s just for neighbors. Visitors are equally welcome. This means older couples looking for a quiet dinner are joined by a younger crowd. Metropolitan is a low-key place where you won’t be jostled by loud, drunken frat boys who swill cheap beer from plastic cups.

Libations: Since this is a wine bar, we wanted to see the list of wines by the glass. There are eight whites, one rose, five sparking, five sweet, eight reds and six ports. We were in the mood for something sweet, so we chose a Lambrusco. The waitress came back and told us the restaurant was out. No bother. How about a Riesling? Out of that, too. Not our night. Before we attempted to choose another, the waitress suggested a good replacement: Tintero Moscato D'Asti Sori Gramella. It was perfect, and probably better than what we would have picked on our own. We learned an important lesson: Life is better when you let others choose.

This wine bar does not disappoint beer drinkers. The taps were expanded when the bar was renovated (the addition of a Unibroue tower is notable) bringing the total to 14. There are 26 bottled beers available and 10 big bottles listed. Every Thursday is firkin Thursday, when the bar taps a special cask-conditioned brew. Additionally, there's a full bar with a good variety. A picky friend wanted a bloody Mary with Absolut Peppar and they had it. We were impressed.

Since it's also a coffee bar, we came back in the morning. We knew we were in the right place, when we saw two of Baltimore's finest enjoying a cup. We had our choice of five brews, and chose the silk mallet. We're happy to report that the coffee was smooth and mild.

Insider tip: Don’t visit just for drinks. Get some food, too. You could make a meal of appetizers, like we did. Order nibbles like stuffed mushrooms with crab imperial ($11). If you're looking for love and comfort on a plate, order the meat loaf or roast turkey platter (a bargain at $9). Or maybe you want to go all out and get something big. The seafood platter ($24) is teeming with the catch of the day, a fluffy crab cake, broiled scallops, green mussels and shrimp so fresh you'll wonder if they were caught that morning.

Bottom line: If you're in the neighborhood, whether you live in it or not, make a point to stop by Metropolitan—for a drink, for a bite to eat, for a cup of coffee or just for the atmosphere.

What other people are saying...

No-pic-chick

TruthSerum from Federal Hill - March 26, 2009 at 9:31 PM

I love Metro!

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