Inside: Little Havana

Key West meets Key Highway

By Allissa Hosten

Special to Metromix
August 24, 2007

 
Critic's Rating:
5

Inside: Little Havana
(Credit: Allissa Hosten)
Photos:
Vibe Crowd Libations Bar
You may think Cuba is all Castro, Communism and cigars, but there's a little piece of Havana right on the bay (of pigs, if you will), that suggests otherwise.

OK, so it's not actually on the bay -- it's more like on the harbor. But there are plenty of pig-like things here -- football (pigskins), bacon (pig sticks) and hefty, slightly toasted guys hustling each other at billiards and Madden, all while stuffing themselves with brunch (suuuuuueeey!). Even on a Sunday afternoon (when we visited), Little Havana rocks.

Vibe: It's Key West meets Key Highway tucked away on the "o-say-can-you-see" side of the harbor. Owner Tim Whistead created the tropical bar replica after moving back from the Florida Keys 10 years ago. Though it resembles a defunct factory from the outside, upon closer inspection you'll discover a larger-than-life mural of Fidel Castro greeting you with a smirk at the door. Palm trees and a corrugated metal awning hang lazily over the bar, and lend a beach bum feel to the place. Add some weathered hardwood flooring, exposed brick and ductwork, and a Cuba Libre newspaper stand, and you have the makings of a real beach bar right in Baltimore.

Crowd: Are you ready for some football? You'd better come wearing a Ravens jersey or risk being booed. Yes, Little Havana on a Sunday afternoon is as spirited as the ESPN Zone across the harbor (without the high-priced appetizers).

Aside from touchdown revelers, this place packs plenty of Fed Hill high rollers, artsy MICA types, college frat boys nursing hangovers and, on our visit, one strange guy wearing a full-on corduroy skirt. And to think he had the nerve to scowl when we asked to take his picture.

Libations: Every Sunday, from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m., brunch is served with a side of bottomless mimosas or Bloody Marys. Be careful how you pour your drink from the pitcher though. It's packed with ice, and getting a buzz could be a bit difficult if you're not deft. (Little Havana is also known for its pitchers of mojitos.)

Sounds: A little Marley in the morning goes a long way. While chomping down on crispy bacon, fluffy French toast and fried eggs, the mellow reggae grooves actually seemed to complement the screeching whistles and commentator chatter of the football games broadcast on four flat-screen TVs. Somehow, everything at Little Havana just works.

Service: We should mention that this place has what we like to call "four-down" service. Before Ray Lewis and his teammates got to perform a few plays, and well before the airing of any cheesy NFL commercials, our plates had arrived.

"Was that even four downs?" one of our hungry pack asked.

We all shook our heads no and took swigs of chilled mimosas. This was the life.

Bottom Line: This place is awesome. It has a laid-back, beachy feel that you don't often find in an urban setting like Baltimore. It's also chic enough to attract the attention of Hollywood filmmakers (scenes for "Ladder 49," "The Replacements" and "Head of State" have been shot here). For the first time in the last half century, the masses will want to spend more time in Cuba, rather than escaping it.

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