First look: Junior's Wine Bar

Act like a grown-up in Federal Hill

By Kat Hudson

Special to Metromix
January 4, 2008

First look: Junior's Wine Bar
Ladies who wine can have a fine time at Junior's. (Credit: Kat Hudson)
Photos:
Junior's Wine Bar Oil's well Eat your greens In the kitchen
Not all cozy wine bars are alike. They usually sacrifice either space (especially in the more historic areas around Baltimore) or affordability. Junior's Wine Bar in Federal Hill unites the two in a warm, romantic way.

Though still in its infancy, Junior's is full of grown-up sophistication set against the backdrop of an old-fashioned neighborhood bar (formerly Vespa's). A dramatic red curtain ushers guests into the restaurant while keeping the draft off diners inside the expansive front dining area.

Food: The night we ventured out to the month-old establishment on Charles Street, it was a bit chillier than we'd have liked. Once inside Junior's, however, we quickly warmed to the scents of roasted Cornish game hens, lobster ravioli and the decadent caramel apple tart. Don't miss the chocolate crème brulee, it's a scene-stealer. With nothing costing more than $20 on the menu, you can afford dessert. Chef Mike Russell's rustic-style cuisine with Italian overtones knows how to tempt a hungry—yet discerning—eater.

Booze: Hello! This is a wine bar! Scott Holt (formerly of Corks), general manager and our bartender for the evening, quickly made us feel at home as he fired up the restaurant's thermostat and poured us a glass of Ferraton Cotes Du Rhone, a dry red bursting with velvety tannins and woodsy berries. While the selection is great, it's also inexpensive; you can sample many great wines for less than $7 a glass. There are no beer taps, but there's a good selection in bottles.

Digs: What sounds a bit like a highfalutin sports bar is a generously-sized restaurant with hush-hush nooks and crannies as well as a private dining room. There is nothing sporty about the Arts and Crafts-era décor that blends spicy cayenne-colored walls with cinnamon-hued banquettes and copper-covered tables. There is something more intimate going on here.

Vibe: Owners Jeff Minderlein (Junior) and Mike Seitz wanted something that was a cross between Magerk's (a sports bar) and Corks (a high-end wine bar). They've succeeded in creating a place that both men and women can appreciate. You can go there with your girlfriends for a girls' night out or for a post-game steak with your buds. Plus, its tenderly-lit rooms are just seductive enough for a Valentine's Day kiss with your sweetie.

Bottom line: If you want to enjoy a great meal a few steps away from the frenetic energy of Federal Hill without breaking your budget, give Junior's Wine Bar a swirl. They're as mindful of your palate as they are of your wallet and in this turbulent economy that is nothing short of wonderful.

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